The Best Locations For Rock Climbing in Sardinia
This detailed guide to the best climbing in Sardinia will assist you in deciding which challenge to take on next. This divine Mediterranean island caters to everyone from beginners to experts while dazzling you with its natural beauty. Read on to discover where you should go climbing next.
Sardinia, the climbers’ paradise
The Mediterranean island of Sardinia has long been a sought-after destination for rock climbers worldwide. The island’s spectacular and rocky interior, surrounded by a wild coastline, has been an attractive choice for adventurous climbing enthusiasts since the 1950s. Although traditional climbing has been around for a while, sport climbing has become very popular only recently.
Sardinia is now an ideal destination for climbers of all experience levels, as the more than 4000 routes offer an abundance of choice for everyone, from beginners to professionals. The island’s dramatic cliffs and gorges provide a variety of challenges for all visitors.
This incredible destination offers more than world-class climbing routes; it is considered by many of its visitors a true ‘climber’s paradise’. Sardinia’s charm lies in its untamed beauty. Its timeless landscapes, rugged coastlines, and limestone mountains will forever remain with you after spending some time on this beautiful island surrounded by turquoise waters. Who would think that climbers from the north of Italy used to say: “Does Sardinia have mountains?”
With Sardinia’s great weather, friendly locals, great food, and excellent rock climbing routes and conditions, it is no wonder it is a top destination for lovers of nature and rock climbing.
What are the most popular climbing areas in Sardinia?
As Sardinia has a long climbing history, several areas have developed excellent climbing routes and maintained them in great condition. The trails are well-used and traversed, with various crags, slabs, cliffs, and caves to conquer.
The main climbing areas provide a diverse range of routes of varying difficulty levels, catering to everyone from absolute beginners to professional climbers. Although there are now thousands of routes, they require constant maintenance of pegs by passionate climbers because oxidation caused by proximity to the sea can cause corrosion.
Nuoro and Cala Gonone area
The traditional rock climbing destination in Sardinia is in the Nuoro province, specifically around the seaside town of Cala Gonone. The area is well known for the gorgeous Bue Marino caves, the stunning beach of Cala Fuili, and the ancient archaeological site nearby, the Nuraghe Mannu.
Cala Fuili is not only a beautiful beach, but it also happens to be a great climbing spot with its gorgeous limestone cliffs along the shoreline. At 5.9 grades on solid limestone rocks surrounded by turquoise waters, the Spigolo Fuili route is a tremendous challenge. With a refreshing dip at the end, you won’t need any more proof that Sardinia is a climber’s paradise.
In the Cala Gonone area, you also have the opportunity to scale the routes of the Codula Fuili Canyon, which are among the most challenging ones in this area. However, there are also some more accessible routes for beginners, mainly in the shade, so teams made up of different mastery levels are well catered to. With its delightful sea breeze never ceasing, you are guaranteed to have a wonderful time here.
Biddiriscottai, located just north of Cala Gonone, is less crowded but has an excellent selection of difficulty levels to climb. The limestone rocks are well-bolted and follow a path to a cave, where the ceiling takes the brave climbers above 50 feet high.
La Poltrona is one of the standouts—a “climbing gem” - of the Cala Gonone area in the Supramonte area, with more than 80 routes travelling up to six pitches high. It is important to remember that La Patrona faces the sun, so you must make sure to plan your climb before 10 am or after 4 pm in the summer months.
With its high-quality limestone rock, Cala Gonone is the heart of Sardinian rock climbing and is also viewed as one of the top climbing areas in Europe. So it's understandable that many rock climbers head straight there to get started. However, several other locations in the Nuoro province have excellent rock climbing routes, most notably the Supramonte Mountains.
Supramonte
The famous Supramonte is located southwest of Cala Gonone and features cliffs that tower over 1000 feet. Monte Oddeu and Gola di Gorrupu are two of the most notable.
We can confidently state that the Gorrupu Canyon, which houses the challenging Hotel Supremonte, is the Supramonte mountain range's crown jewel. The limestone cliffs present an 8b grade climb with various terrains, including erosion pockets and ribs. Even for experienced climbers, the Hotel Supramonte presents a unique puzzle and a difficult climb.
The nearby Monte Oddeu — God’s Mountain — offers many exciting 5.10a- to 5.11-grade sport and classic routes for those not yet ready for Hotel Supremonte, an extremely difficult multi-pitch route.
Ogliastra region
The Ogliastra province stretches between Cala Gonone and Quirra in the south. As one of the most versatile areas, Ogliastra offers all types of climbing, from bouldering to deep water soloing (DWS) and single and multi-pitch sports routes. The terrain has a lot to offer; here, you can find mountains with an altitude higher than 1000m and shallow crags to accommodate both summer and winter climbing.
The areas around Tortoli have benefited from development in the last few years, offering a versatile rock climbing experience along the eastern coastline. Professional climbers have paid particular attention to Baunei, Dillosauro, Jerzu, and Ulassai, as there is much more potential.
Baunei
The area around Baunei has 11 climbing sectors with a mix of single and multi-pitch routes, all close to the beautiful seaside. The climbing is on rough limestone rock, and since it's near sea level, it is an ideal spot for the cooler months. The best climbing seasons in this area are from the spring until July and from September to December. Due to recent changes in the weather, however, climbing in the Baunei area is now available throughout the year.
Punta Giradili, near Baunei village, is a one-of-a-kind location with the island's longest multi-pitches. It can also be approached from the top or bottom, depending on your preference. In either case, scaling or descending the wild seaside mini-wall of Punta Giradili is an unforgettable experience.
Jerzu and Ulassai
Jerzu and Ulassai villages are surrounded by magnificent limestone cliffs, providing the best single-pitch sport climbing experience in Sardinia. The routes here cater to various styles, from steep routes to overhanging rocks, most of them between the grades of 5.2 and 5.9. This area is now emerging as the “Climbing Paradise” of Sardinia.
There are also many routes graded 5.2 to 5.7, but the area generally is not very beginner-friendly. Ulassai and Jerzu are ideal for the midgrade climber, offering 345 of the 5.7 and nearly 400 of the 5.8 routes at an altitude of 800m. To top it all, the weather is ideal for climbing from March to December.
Ulassai, also known as The Canyon, is located about three miles south of Jerzu. When the summer gets hot for the vertical climbs in Jerzu, Ulassai offers a great alternative with its shady crags. The area boasts over 120 pitches, covering all difficulties from 5.6 to 5.14.
Ulassai and Jerzu have a vibrant scene, constantly developed and maintained by passionate climbers. The stunning waterfalls of Lequarci, the Su Marmuri cave, and the popular Theleme camping grounds are a magnet for adventure seekers, making the area a true paradise.
Cala Goloritze
The iconic rock needle of Cala Goloritze is located 10 km north of Baunei, towering at 140m. Cala Goloritze is one of the most spectacular climbing spots in Sardinia, offering routes at greater difficulty. Most of them range between 5.10b to 5.11c/d, all with multi-pitches.
When in Cala Goloritze, you must try the routes of Punta Caroddi — the rock needle — and the popular Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento with its six pitches, both with a grade of 5.10 or over.
If you're looking for an easier climb, you have the Easy Gymnopedie waiting for you with its five pitches and 140m length at medium difficulty.
Oristano area and Isili
The Oristano area is located near the east coast of Sardinia, stretching into the middle of the island. Rock climbing around Oristano has many different types of rock, mainly limestone, basalt, and granite. The area is large but relatively young and still growing as a rock-climbing centre, except for Isili.
Isili is in the island's centre and offers Sardinia's most popular climbing routes; most of them are quite difficult to reach. It is famous for its steep and overhanging roof climbs, forcing climbers to defy gravity, but you can also find hundreds of single-pitch sports routes. Isili has 13 sectors, offering routes for beginners and experts alike.
The easiest climbs are at Pietra Filosofale, while the busiest crag is called Cervo Spaziale. Urania, slightly to the north, is only for the most experienced, with routes ranging in difficulty from 5.13d to 5.14b.
Iglesias and Domusnovas
The largest rock climbing centre in Sardinia is centred around Iglesias. Domusnovas Province is a unique climbing area with underground rivers, caves, and geological gems like the Grotte di S. Giovanni cave, an 800-m-long tunnel that crosses the mountain. Domusnovas has over 500 bolted routes, allowing you to explore the entire mountain from every angle.
This province offers stunning limestones in Nebida and Masua, while Capo Pecora has the best granite rocks in the south-east of Sardinia
With 5.6-grade routes, Punta Pilocca is ideal for beginners but presents challenges to more experienced climbers. The 120 pitches provide opportunities for anyone attempting to conquer the long south-facing crag. The Punta Pilocca wall is frequently referred to as the best climb in Sardinia.
Cagliari
The Sarrabus Mountains in the southeast of the island, near Cagliari, provide excellent bouldering opportunities. With over 100 routes available, the excellent granite rock provides a great opportunity to develop bouldering problems, such as in Sella del Diavolo. You can find more bouldering opportunities in Geremes, on the seaside, just 30 minutes from Cagliari. This area also has great multi-pitch routes, with the best conditions in the spring and autumn.
Plan your adventure climbing trip
Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned expert, we can help you make the most of your rock climbing experience in Sardinia. At Sardinia Adventures, we take care of everything from airport pickups to accommodation, transits to climbing locations, and more.
We offer expert guidance through beginner and expert-level routes; you only have to book your spot here to get your holiday package. With additional cultural activities included in every package, you will be immersed in the Sardinian culture while conquering Europe's best climbing spots.
FAQs
Is Sardinia good for climbing?
Sardinia is one of the oldest and best rock climbing locations in Europe. It offers thousands of bolted routes at all difficulty levels, available to everyone. The island’s limestone rocks are of superb quality and come in all shapes and sizes, attracting amateur and professional climbers alike.
When is the best time to climb in Sardinia?
In Sardinia, you can climb any time of the year. The winters are mellow and sunny, allowing you to enjoy a winter getaway. The routes by the sea have the best conditions in the spring and the autumn, but other areas provide excellent conditions throughout the year.
What are the most popular climbing spots in Sardinia?
The most popular climbing spots are Cala Gonone, Ulassai, Baunei, Domusnovas, Jerzu, and Isili. On the beautiful Mediterranean island of Sardinia, they provide excellent beginner and professional climbing routes.